There's no truly comprehensive list as Zippo keeps some anti counterfeiting features secret but here a few links that could help.
https://www.zippo.com.sg/how-to-differentiate-a-real-and-fake-zippo-lighter/
https://www.wsj.com/video/how-to-tell-a-zippo-from-a-rippo/49EED886-6519-41D6-9BD4-CE4D764EC31D.html
In addition to these:
- The bottom stamp has to be stamped and not engraved
- The stamp and insert engravings details have to be just right, for example the ® behind the Zippo word changes position depending on the year it was made. The wording on the insert also can be different depending on it's age (the insert details are stamped not engraved)
- The flint screw has to be protruding slightly and not flush to the bottom of the insert (only on later models)
- The cam has to have a little cut notch at it's tip (only on later models) (they only started notching the cam after ‘03)
- The eyelets for the wick and flint are brass.
- The flint wheel needs to have a crisscross pattern (only on later models) (the original design of the strike wheel had straight striations before they started cross hatching them. There is a history on third party manufacture vs them making their own)
- The hinge has to be 5 barrelled going small, big, small, big, small (can be 3, 4 or 5 barrel depending on years of manufacture) (they used many hinge designs… from 3 barrel, 4 barrel and 5 barrel to barrels of varying widths, depending on the year, commemorative editions, etc)
- Zippo only used a 14 hole design, 7 on each side, for early models and replicas
- Spelling mistakes are a no-no (have seen them on the boxes, never on the lighter)
Some people swear by the ping it makes when it opens but here's a vid that shows the ping isn't the most accurate way to tell.
https://youtu.be/bjSFeWq9gYM
For me, the very best way to be sure is a critical, close up side by side comparison with a known genuine lighter, or excellent quality pictures for comparison.
The best place to start is the quality of the bottom stamp. That’s hard to do well.
